Friday, May 31, 2013

Vintage & Exotic Car Restoration - Star and Their Car Jimi Hendrix - FZ Restoration Livermore


Jimi Hendrix Corvette


It’s a well-known fact that James Marshall Hendrix, better known as “Jimi,” was a fan of the iconic Fender Stratocaster. What isn’t common knowledge was his affinity for Chevrolet Corvettes. During his short time in the spotlight, Hendrix owned not one, but two Vettes.

His first, a Stingray, was purchased in Cleveland in 1968 while on tour with his band, The Jimi Hendrix Experience, in support of their recently released masterpiece Axis: Bold As Love. Sadly, after less than a year, Hendrix totaled the car following a long night of heavy partying. Undeterred, and with his insurance claim filed, Hendrix took delivery of a replacement Corvette.

This second Corvette, in Cortez Silver, remained in Hendrix’s possession until his death, after which it was sold to cover mounting bills faced by his estate. From there the trail goes cold, with the car’s whereabouts currently unknown.




by John R. Paul
 

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration - Star and Their Cars - FZ Restoration Livermore


Janis Joplin Porsche


She may have immortalized her love for Mercedes-Benz on the eponymous track from her final album Pearl, but Janis Joplin’s heart belonged to her 1965 Porsche 356C Cabriolet.

The 356C was the immediate predecessor to the 911 and Joplin’s ’65 was one of the final 356Cs manufactured, the rest having been turned into the newly developed 911. Joplin bought the car used in 1967 after her albums started selling thanks to an appearance with Big Brother and the Holding Company at the Monterey Pop Festival.

Not just any old 356C, Joplin’s particular car was one of only 14,166 produced and featured one of the more desirable configurations in the form of a convertible with disc brakes and a 90 Super engine. All of this paled in comparison, of course, to the psychedelic paintwork that soon consumed the exterior of the formerly Oyster White Porsche.

One iconic photo shows Joplin seated cross-legged on the hood of her hippie-fied beauty, by far one of the most instantly recognizable Porsches of all time. Sadly, the original paint began to flake severely in the years following her death. The car was repainted a more neutral gray in the late ‘70s after being returned to her family. As a tribute to their departed sister, Joplin’s siblings had a replica of the original paintwork crafted on the vehicle, returning it to its previous flower power glory. Today it resides in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, Ohio.
 
by John R. Paul
 

Monday, May 27, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration - Four Reasons NOT to Restore a Vintage Car - FZ Restoration Livermore





 

1. YOU WILL NOT MAKE MONEY

Everyone has thought when they see a project for cheap: “Hey, I’ll snag this car, spend more time than money fixing it and then, after enjoying it, sell it at a tidy profit.”

Fat chance. Whichever restoration type you try, the overwhelming odds are that the car and the job will end up costing more than they’re worth. Yes, people have made big money through this process—but it’s almost always those you’ve paid to do the work. The car’s value simply will not support the cost of both the car and the rebuild.

Jackson does everything himself—down to stitching seats—and says he has made money on his restorations. With 17 cars to his credit, he’s both proficient and efficient. By his own calculation, for the tens of thousands of hours he’s invested, he’s returned about $3 per. In other words, he’d earn more part-time serving fries with that order.

It only gets worse from there. If you act as general contractor, the most expensive subcontracted jobs will be paint and then an engine rebuild. For decent quality work, those two jobs alone will cost more than a clean, decently restored MGB. And no one will pay top dollar for a car unless it’s a top-notch, fresh restoration. A full professional job is likely the least cost-effective proposition: Think 1000 hours at $70 or so, or $70,000. And that’s just for the labor.

Unless the car was owned by someone famous, has a documented history, or is exceptionally rare and expensive, it will cost more to restore than it’s worth.


2. YOU’LL SPEND MORE THAN PLANNED

We’ve never met an enthusiast who restored a car and didn’t overspend the budget. Ever. Even if you’ve set aside enormous mounds of cash, you’ll buy things you never accounted for. And then the price of brake kits or weatherstripping or gaskets will go up. You’ll buy things twice. If you’re taking the car apart and putting it back together, you’ll buy tools you never knew existed—and use them once. Your restorer, even if he’s a seasoned pro and not a flake, will find something he hadn’t anticipated. If you’re not satisfied with the work, you might switch shops mid-process, and that will cost. In all cases, as the restoration moves toward completion, and you shake your head in resignation at the original budget, you’ll be in the difficult position of having to skimp where you never expected you would. Or not, and spend large.
 

3. YOU PROBABLY WON’T FINISH

How do we count the ways? If Jackson flies through a modest, straightforward job, he will invest 1000 hours. He recommends a baseline projection of 2000 hours and much more for first-timers. Do the math: 2000 hours equals two hours and 45 minutes every day for two years. No, you get no holidays or days off.

Better to consider the old-car habit from another perspective: If it’s driven more than twice a year, an already-restored or decent original car will offer enough tuning and tinkering opportunities to satisfy those who want to work with their hands.

“Restorations take so much time no matter how you do them, and they’re tedious,” says vintage-car expert Keith Martin, publisher of Sports Car Market. “There are never any pleasant surprises.”

 

4. PROTECTING AN HEIRLOOM ISN’T WORTH THE AGGRAVATION, EITHER

You’ve inherited an uncle’s ’65 Mustang coupe with the 129-hp, 200-cid straight-six. This money pit is deeper still, because the cost/value equation tips further out of whack. Done properly, restoring that six-cylinder ’Stang will cost almost as much as redoing a GT 350. In number terms, think about $100,000 in a car that on a good day might get $25,000.

Is that “original is better” philosophy taking hold here? Not as it has in Europe, but it is gaining traction. A car is only original once. Spend what it takes to keep that heirloom running, and make your first $10 million before committing to more and undertaking the whole project.


BUT IF YOU INSIST . . .

Remember the Internet is a wonderful resource. Information and experts—or fools—are keystrokes away. A search will reveal regional car owners clubs. Perhaps more significant, used-car parts are easy to find on the web. Depending on your restoration needs, replica, rebuilt or original parts with next-day shipment are available without ever talking to a human. It was not long ago that parts were scavenged in swap meets around the country. That has all changed.

“The satisfaction is similar to restoring or rebuilding a house, with some added benefits,” says Jackson. “There can be more of a community aspect to restoring a car, and when you stop for gas, people ogle and marvel. ‘You did that?’ You can’t drive a house to the gas station.”
 

Friday, May 24, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration - Other Barn Find Stories - The Missing Daytona Coupe Mystery - FZ Restoration Livermore - (925) 294-5666

cobra_daytona_2287a.jpg



 

Back in 1964 Carol Shelby was tearing up the tracks in the US with his Cobra roadsters.  Nothing had a chance.  But on the European tracks with longer  straights it was a different story.  The roadster aerodynamics limited its top speed and the Ferrari’s would clean their clocks.  In 1965 Shelby was intent on winning against Ferrari.  Because Ferrari was allowed to enter a special version of their road car it opened the door for Carol Shelby to do the same.  Fortunately he had Pete Brock on his payroll and Pete had studied aerodynamic texts that the Germans had put together from years of research.  Pete also had a great eye for form and with the help of the Shelby crew they designed the Cobra Coupe.  It was fantastic and the chassis number of the first one was CSX2287.  Six were made in all.

The design was so perfect it allowed Shelby to win against Ferrari, but Ford was intent on LeMans and wanted Shelby to devote his shop to the GT40.  This left CSX2287 to get cleaned up and used on the public relations Cobra Caravan.  It even spent some time on the Bonneville Salt Flats with Craig Breedlove and Bobby Tatroe setting 23 international and national speed records.

Then it disappeared.  It would take thirty years to turn up again.

Since Ford wanted Shelby to concentrate on the GT40, Carol put the coupes up for sale.  The most he could get for any of them was about $4000 without engines and transmissions.   CSX2287 was sold first to Oscar Koveleski of Autoworld fame and then to Jim Russellof Russkit slot cars who converted it to street use (sort of) and sold it to none other than Phil Spector.  Phil accumulated a lot of speeding tickets and also found the race car did not convert that well to the street, often becoming unbearably hot.  Phil took it to a shop to see about further converting it to street use, but the mechanic told him it would cost tons of money and offered to scrap it for him for $800.

Now here is where the story gets a little screwy.  Some say that Phil sold it to his body guard for $1000 in 1971.  The body guard, George Brand, then gave it to his daughter, Donna O’Hara, who stashed the car and wouldn’t tell anyone where it was or even admit that she had it.

Donna got divorced in 1982 and she retained control of the car. In the last couple of years Robert Lavoie, an attorney representing Kurt Goss a childhood friend of Donna’s, tried several times to buy it for half a million dollars, but she refused.
cobra_daytona_2287c.jpg

On October 22, 2000, Donna went under a bridge Fulerton, CA, with her rabbits and a couple of bottles of gasoline.  She poured the gasoline on herself and lit it off.  It took her 15 hours to die and she wouldn’t even tell the police who she was.  She just told them to “Shut up”.  It took over a month for her to be identified when friends reported her disappearance.

Goss claimed that she called him five days prior and told him that if anything happened to her he was to take care of her personal belongings.  Goss said that she wanted him to have the coupe along with three other cars of hers.  When he heard that Donna had died he contacted her mother and paid the outstanding storage charges expecting to remove the coupe.  The owner of the storage center would not let Goss remove it without legal authority and Donna had no will.

cobra_daytona_2287b.jpg

Meanwhile Martin Eyears, a rare car dealer from Montecito, tried to close a deal with Donna’s mother to buy it for $3,000,000.  Donna’s father suffers from Alzheimer’s disease and can’t help with the questions over ownership.  So Martin decides to sell it to a collector on the east coast for $4,000,000.
source: http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2007/01/14/the-missing-daytona-coupe-mystery/


http://www.fzrestoration.com

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration - Other Barn Find Stories - One-of-one Benz found in LA junkyard - FZ Restoration Livermore - (925) 294-5666


One-of-one Benz found in LA junkyard

Mercedes 550K and other treasures rust away

Despite the name, not all barn finds are found in barns. Some are found in scrapyards like Porche Foreign Auto (pictured) in downtown Los Angeles.


And when I say "found," I mean "rumoured to be rusting away." And when I say "some," I mean "cars like the one-off Mercedes-Benz 1935 Caracciola 500K built for racer Rudolph Caracciola."

Town & Country magazine stumbled upon the rusty treasure chest that is Porche Foreign Auto, and interviewed the owners, the Klein brothers. They're the sons of the late Rudi Klein, who started the scrapyard in 1967.

The Kleins confirmed they know they're sitting on some incredibly rare and valuable scrap metal (the Caracciola 500K could be worth more than $10 million if restored) and don't plan on doing anything with it.

They'll have no visitors, entertain no offers — they even turned Mercedes-Benz themselves, who said they'd restore the car for free if they could just display it in their musuem for a while.


Other cars rotting away inside the yard include "a pair of one-off prewar Maybachs; one of two Iso Grifo Spyders (designed and engineered by Giotto Bizzarrini, who also has the Ferrari 250 GTO on his résumé); one of 29 alloy-bodied Mercedes Gullwings...; a couple of BMW 502s and 507s; a half-dozen or so Lamborghini Miuras, with their mighty V12 engines; and the last surviving example of the seven Horch 855 Spezial Roadsters ever built."
 
 
 

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration Bay Area - Portuguese Barn Find (largest in the last 6 Years?) - FZ Restoration Livermore


collection-1srx2


Portuguese barn houses 180 cars, all covered with decades of dust

Huge collections like the one in Portugal don't just happen. Cars are accumulated by someone with a purpose

By Tom Cotter

One day this January, I received at least ten forwarded email attachments to a web site that featured photos of an eclectic collection of old cars in a decaying building. For the next week it seemed the web was literally blanketed with these images, each giving a similar story:

“Imagine moving into an old farmhouse in the Portuguese countryside, and, while walking around “the lower 40” of your new investment, you come across an old building. Curious as to what may be inside, you pry open the rusted door and for the first time in decades, one of the largest hordes of old cars ever discovered is exposed to sunlight.”

I didn’t believe that story for a moment.

Huge collections of cars don’t just happen. Cars are accumulated—sometimes lovingly, sometimes not—by someone with a purpose. I was sure this collection was not assembled by accident; nobody would simply sell an old farm and fail to mention to the new owners the stash of old cars in the barn.

I decided to investigate. I searched the web and ultimately came to an English language dead end at the Mazda Miata Club Norway web site. But I kept going, sending emails in English and hoping that some kind recipient would take a few moments to answer some questions. All indications were that the cars were hidden somewhere in Portugal, so that’s where I focused my investigation.

Through a Cobra buddy, Don Silawski of Washington, DC, I contracted with a Portuguese translator, Clara Dixon. Clara would be my tour guide and try to unearth some of the naked truth regarding this huge stash. Clara also checked the Internet for news stories that may have been written in Portuguese newspapers about the cars. I was beginning to feel like a CIA sleuth…

I must admit that for me, a lifelong barn-finder, a collection this large would be the discovery of a lifetime. My 15-year-old son, Brian, even tried to convince me to hop a flight to Portugal to see if I could actually find the collection myself.

I was eventually able to contact the photographer who was contracted by the cars’ owner to shoot the photographs that would ultimately appear on millions of car-guy computer monitors beginning on January 20.

THE STORY BEHIND THE STORY

Manuel Menezes Morais shot the photos, but he was sworn to secrecy about the cars’ location and the owner’s name. However, he was able to obtain permission from the elusive owner to give me the following information:

The owner of the cars was a car dealer in the 1970s and 1980s, and decided to save the more interesting cars that came through his doors. When the barn was full, he padlocked and “soldered” the doors shut. (Perhaps welding was too permanent.)

Web sites varied on the number of cars: 58, 100, and 180 were speculated. According to Morais, there are 180 cars in the barn.

And, aw shucks, none of the cars is for sale.

Clara was able to determine that the cars are located somewhere in the area of Sintra, near Lisbon. I asked Morais if he could ask the owner if he had a favorite car. “He has lots of good cars in very good condition,” he says, “but he loves the Lancia Aurelia B24. He has two.”
source: http://www.sportscarmarket.com/columns-blogs/news/2709-portuguese-barn-find-fact-or-fiction
by Tom Cotter


http://www.fzrestoration.com

Friday, May 17, 2013

Vintage & Exotic Car Restoration Bay Area - How to Restore a Classic Car on a Budget - FZ Restoration Livermore





 

 

Learning how to restore a classic car only requires a few simple steps, but implementing them will take time and budgeting. Time is an important factor in full restoration projects since it can take around 1,000 hours to fully restore a classic car. You're going to need a lot of parts which won't always be easy to find and will cost significant sums of money. However, there are ways to accomplish the task without breaking the bank.

Finding Your Car
First of all, you need a vehicle to restore. You can cut down on the amount of work and money you need to spend on the restoration by buying a classic car that's already partially restored, or a project that someone hasn't had the time or money to finish. However, you will pay more upfront for this. Alternatively, you can scout around for a complete project that will need a lot of work but which won't cost you much on an initial basis. Talk to other classic car enthusiasts who may be aware of a potential project, look at magazines and check any online ads. Don't be in a hurry to make a choice. The more work you have to do, the longer it will take and the more you'll spend on parts.

Finding Parts
You need a number of replacement parts when you restore a classic car. If you're lucky, you will be able to salvage some of the parts already on the car and in the engine. However, there will still be a lot of items that you'll need to buy.

Contact vehicle salvage centers in your area to see if they have a similar vehicle. If so, find out what parts are available. This will be the cheapest route. Also, check online to see if anyone is parting out a similar vehicle for spares or repairs. This can be a good source of cheap parts.

You can also find a wide range of cheap parts online. The best places are through online car collector groups, where members offer parts for sale.

Restoring Your Car
The only way to restore a classic car on a budget is to do the work yourself. That means you need a place to do the work, such as a garage, where the vehicle is shielded from the weather. You also need a full range of auto tools, the owner's manual and plenty of experience. Talk to friends or other enthusiasts who have restoration experience and might be willing to help or teach you.

Undertake as much of the bodywork yourself as possible. How much you need to do obviously depends on the condition of the car, but there will certainly be some cosmetic work involved. Keep money aside for a professional paint job to finish the vehicle, although you can do the priming of the body yourself. This will save on the overall paint costs.

Expect to take about a year to restore a classic car. Don't try and rush the project. Always take time to locate the cheapest sources for parts before you buy and do as much of the work as you possibly can yourself.

How to Plan Your Restoration Project

You should make a number of decisions and evaluations to before starting to work on your car.

Assess the car. Have you bought an old rust bucket or an accident damaged car? Perhaps it is in good running order but the bodywork has been better days. Maybe you bought a vehicle that had been off the road for a long time and needs minimal restoration. The amount of work the car needs will determine the scope of the project in time and money.

Decide on authenticity. You have a list of the parts you need for your project car restoration. How much you spend will depend upon whether you are a stickler for original or brand parts or whether you feel you can compromise on certain areas of your project. Decide which parts must be brand name or original, and which parts you can buy at a lower price.

Do it yourself. Do-it-yourself projects depend on the amount of skill you have. If you are not a trained mechanic, you might have problems diagnosing and fixing some jobs on your project. Doing it yourself can save you money, but if you need a professional to fix your mistakes that will cost more than going to the pro in the first place. If you know that at some point you will need to engage the services of a professional, include the cost in your budget.

Determine your budget. Take an inventory of everything that needs to be done. Take auto parts, accessories, paints, tires, wheels, panels and doors, professional help and what each of them costs into account. When you finish assessing the assessment, you will have arrived at a budget figure. Take that final figure and add 30 percent. Most budgets over run by a small amount, but if you factor this in you will not have any nasty surprises.

Plan your work schedule. Work out the plan of your actual work. Does the project car need to be dismantled? If so, work from the bottom up. Remove the parts that need replacing and restoring. Catalogue them as you go, so you know where each piece goes. It is very easy to forget a nut or a bolt and end up with a jar of spare bits. Allow enough time for each step, so you are not rushed to completion.

Ask for help. If you have never undertaken such a project before, with all the best will in the world you can still mess up. If you have questions or issues, always ask an expert for help. Visit restoration forums on the internet or join online project car clubs and get advice from other project car lovers who have been right where you are now.
source: http://www.carsdirect.com/classic-cars/how-to-restore-a-classic-car-on-a-budget

http://www.fzrestoration.com

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Vintage & Exotic Car Restoration Livermore - How To Decide Which Car You Should Restore - FZ Restoration Livermore




Once you’ve decided that you’re ready to buy and restore an older car, the next decision is which car would be the best restoration project for you. This is not the easy conclusion one might think, especially if you’ve never fully restored a car before. A quick and hasty purchase without proper research is not advisable for novice or expert. We suggest that you put pencil to paper and ask yourself these questions before you pull out the pen and check book.

What Are the Top Five Cars You Would Like to Own?
We always suggest that you have at least five makes/models of cars that could be a possible restoration project because as you go through the following questions, you’d be surprised how quickly the desirability factor of a car can diminish under close scrutiny. Whether it’s the initial cost, availability of parts or the difficulty level of the particular car, your research may have you thinking that your dream car would be a nightmare restoration.

Your best education about a variety of marques is available at car shows and auctions. Talk to owners about their car’s design flaws and what they did to remedy them. Ask how easy or difficult the car is to maintain and find parts for. Look at all the cars very closely, and you may find yourself admiring a marque that you wouldn’t have considered before.

Just be sure that you have actually driven the cars you place on your top five. What may look like a really cool car while parked in your garage could be a real wrestling match for you to drive. Remember that older cars don’t handle or brake like newer cars. And if you keep them as they were originally produced, they will not have the creature comforts you have come to enjoy. Why take all the time to restore a car that you won’t have fun driving.

What do You Plan to do With Your Restored Car?
Restoring a car for investment purposes will play a big role in deciding your purchase. You need to find a car that is as close to original as possible, especially one that has matching numbers on the engine, body, frame and transmission. Restoring the car’s original parts will retain the cars value much more than sourcing parts from similar makes and models.

But if you’re looking to restore an older car to be a regular driver that will used more for fun than turning a buck, a solid car would be the better criteria. A solid car that has little rust, a straight and accident free body, and decent bright work will save a lot of time and money in a restoration project.

How Much of the Restoration Can You do Yourself?
If you are not handy around the house and have never changed the oil on your car, then be realistic about finding accomplished professionals to do the heavy work for you. This will make a very expensive restoration compared to buying an already finished car. Even the home mechanic can be intimidated with the mechanics found in vehicles produced in the 60’s and 70’s. First timers may want to look at the more straight forward 40’s and 50’s engines and electronics.

The key factors on the affordability scale are then driven from your ability to do the work, and what you think you should pay for the jobs that you have done, the availability of quality shops for specialized work at a reasonable cost and of course, the availability of parts or spares at reasonable prices. The reasonable price criteria is directly related to the numbers of cars built of the model you have chosen and the network of clubs from which you can gain intelligence for their sourcing.

How Much Money is in the Budget?
Only 30% of restoration projects get back out on the road, mostly due to the lack of funds for completion. It is a rare occasion that we find a restoration project costs us less than expected even when we generously pad the budget for unexpected repairs or part replacements.

Once you have made a complete inspection of the car, make a list of all the repairs or replacement items necessary and the tools you will have to buy to do these repairs. If the engine doesn’t start, don’t assume that it ever will and put that repair on the list. Source parts and get quotes from professionals to complete the restoration before you make an offer on a car. The inconvenient truth behind automotive restoration is that the car you buy for $5000 can cost you $25,000 to restore only to find that the resale value is $21,000…even if you do a high end restoration.

Where Will You do the Work on the Car?
If you think you can just put your main transportation outside and restore your classic in its parking space, think again. Once you start taking the project car apart, you will find that it takes up much more room than your main ride did.

Parts that come off need be stored in an organized and documented fashion. Before you know it you’ll have boxes, body parts and bright work with no place to put them. This can cause damage and loss to parts of the car you didn’t have in the budget.

If space is limited, consider a smaller car like an MG, BMW Isetta or VW Bug. These cars can offer some very thrifty thrills.

Why Do You Want to Restore a Car?
If you think this is a silly question to ask, you obviously have never fully restored an old car. Restoring an older automobile with the goal to get it back to its former glory and on the road again, is truly a labor of love and can be great fun. Every time you come up against a nut that won’t budge or find that apart needs to be fabricated, you need to remind yourself of this.

We suggest you make the reasons for restoring this car a mantra to be repeated constantly when aligning your newly painted doors back onto its hinges and trying to get them to close properly. This helps curb the obligatory profanity usually used during this part of the restoration.

We’re not trying to scare you away from restoring a car, we just want you to understand that there are frustrating moments in the process. It’s similar to golf…when you shank the ball left into no man’s land, you have to remember that this is a game and you’re supposed to be having fun.
source:  http://classiccars.about.com/od/restorationbasics/a/Howtochoose.htm
by Tony and Michele Hamer

http://www.fzrestoration.com

Monday, May 13, 2013

Exotic and Vintage Car Restoration Bay Area - How To Wash and Wax Your Car - FZ Restoration Livermore



Car Washing Picture

Car Washing Picture
When you wash your car, don't use normal dish soap, laundry soap or household cleaners. They strip waxes and could damage the car's finish. | June 18, 2012 | Meguiar's Inc.
 
 
 
It may seem counterintuitive, but frequently washing and waxing your vehicle is the best way to maintain its exterior paint finish for years to come, regardless of the constant wiping and rubbing it entails — but only as long as you're using the right products in the correct order. All major brands of car washes, car waxes and related detailing products are specially formulated to work gently on the clear-coat paint finishes found on every car built since the mid-1990s. They're ideal for removing dirt above and below the surface, eliminating swirls and other imperfections and leaving a high-gloss shine.

Such obsessive-compulsive labor need not be arduous, however. While there are multiple procedures involved in washing and waxing a car to perfection, it's not necessary to do them all at once. Some steps should be taken weekly. Others can be employed every few months or annually. If you want to watch some pros using the techniques described in this story, check out the instructional videos from car-care product companies Meguiar's and Mothers.

At all times, there are some simple car wash rules to keep in mind:

No matter which stage you're at in the car wash and wax process, it's always best to have the car parked in a cool, shady place.

If the water you're using to wash the car is hard — meaning that it contains a lot of minerals — it will leave spots on the paint's finish when it evaporates. That happens more quickly in hot sunlight. And although many modern, synthetic polymer-based car waxes are sun-friendly since they won't dry too quickly and become difficult to remove, you'll expend less effort if you use them on a cool surface. For best results, the car's surface should be no more than warm to the touch.

Be sure to have a good stock of microfiber towels on hand for washing and drying the car, and for applying and removing car wax and related car-care products.

A microfiber towel is gentler to a car's finish than a cotton towel or chamois, which could mar the finish, creating slight scratches or ruts that accumulate over time. Microfiber towels require special care, however. Wash them separately from all other laundry and especially not with linty cotton towels. Use hot water and don't use fabric softener. Run them through at least one additional rinse cycle in the washing machine. Then dry them on a low-heat setting. Finally, stop using them on painted or glass surfaces when they begin to show their age by, for example, shedding lint. Instead, use them for polishing wheels and, later, for polishing stainless steel exhaust pipe tips.

Keep the car's paint in showroom condition through a four-step process: washing, cleaning, polishing and waxing.

It's important to use the correct products at the correct stages. This will prevent unnecessary damage to your car's finish.

Washing
The most critical of the four steps is washing, which removes the loose contaminants that gradually accumulate on the surface of the finish, creating a gritty residue that could cause scratches in later steps if it's not removed properly first. This requires a genuine car wash product (such as Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash, Mothers California Gold Carnauba Wash and Wax or Turtle Wax ICE Premium Care Car Wash). These products are pH-balanced and formulated to loosen and lift surface contaminants without stripping away waxes.

You should avoid normal dish soap, laundry soap and household cleaners. They are designed to remove and dissolve grease and oil, and they will strip away the waxes and in some instances could damage the car's finish.

Wash the car thoroughly, working from the top down and utilizing a lamb's wool or microfiber washing mitt. Professional car detailers prefer these because the nap of the lamb's wool or microfiber draws the dirt particles away from the paint. Re-dip the mitt in the bucket after each panel of the car is washed. That cleans the mitt and ensures that you're again working with fresh suds.

For soft convertible tops, dip a soft bristle brush in the suds and work the dirt out of the grain using small, circular strokes. If the top is heavily soiled or stained, use a product designed for convertible tops, such as Meguiar's Convertible Top Cleaner. These products are pH-balanced to safely lift dirt from cloth and vinyl tops without damaging the stitching.

Dry the car thoroughly with a soft, absorbent waffle-weave microfiber drying towel. Do not store the top in the down position if it is still wet, says the Haartz Corporation, a leading manufacturer of convertible tops. Make sure the top is completely dry before storing.

Experts recommend washing a car this way weekly.

For casual touch-ups between washes, you can use a spray-on product called a detailer (such as Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer, Mothers California Gold Showtime Instant Detailer and Turtle Wax ICE Premium Care Spray Detailer). Detailer products slough off light surface dirt, but don't offer any protection.

Cleaning the Gunk
Next, inspect the paint, searching for above-the-surface bonded contaminants such as a thin film of tree sap, bird droppings or pollen and below-the-surface defects such as swirls, oxidation caused by the sun's ultraviolet radiation or etching from acid rain.

Lightly sweep your flat hand along the paint. If it does not feel as smooth as glass, you have above-the-surface contaminants. A clay bar designed for car care (such as the one included in Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit or in Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Kit) is mildly abrasive to shear off and remove these contaminants. It should be the first product you use to try to remove them. Rub it over the affected area, kneading and turning it to expose a clean area when necessary.

For below-the-surface defects, you can use a cleaner with mild abrasives (such as Meguiar's Ultimate Compound or Mothers California Gold Pure Polish). Use a microfiber-covered or foam applicator pad to apply it, using small circular, overlapping strokes. Never use hard pressure.

Cleaning a section of the vehicle at a time, remove the cleaner with a microfiber towel that you've folded into fourths. Use one side to break up and wipe away the hazy product, then flip the towel over to a clean side to remove any additional residue. Your paint should now feel smooth and should be free of swirls and defects.

If upon the initial inspection you do not find any defects — either above or below the surface — you can skip the cleaning step altogether and go straight to polishing and waxing. However, experts say that use of a clay bar probably will be necessary every six months.

Polishing
Polishes and glazes add luster but do not protect the finish, so using them is entirely optional, especially since clear-coat finishes are highly resistant to oxidation. Even years-old cars generally retain their shine today.

Nevertheless, products such as Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and Mothers California Gold Micro-Polishing Glaze can restore the natural oils your paint once had, making the car's surface more reflective and shiny. Using a polish or glaze once a year may be helpful. Although light-colored paints such as white, silver and tan may not display much change, darker colors such as black, burgundy and navy blue will reflect light like a mirror after proper polishing.

As you did during the cleaning process, apply the polish or glaze by hand, using small circular, overlapping strokes with a microfiber-covered or foam applicator pad on one section of the car at a time, removing the polish with a microfiber towel after the product becomes hazy. Don't allow the polish to dry completely. Trying to remove dry polish will almost certainly result in scratches to the finish.

Waxing
For protection, you need to apply a car wax, and experts recommend that this be done at least every three months. However, there are varieties of wax that can be used much more frequently. If you're really obsessive, some can be used as often as every few days.

The newest synthetic polymer-based waxes (such as Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, Mothers California Gold Synthetic Wax and Turtle Wax ICE Premium Care Liquid Wax) generally provide longer-lasting protection and are easier to use in the sun than older-style carnauba-based waxes (such as Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Wax and Mothers California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax).

Normally, the newer liquid or paste waxes provide the longest-lasting protection — usually three or four months if the car is kept in a garage and not exposed to a harsh environment.

When applying a liquid or paste wax, you'll use the same technique: small, circular, overlapping strokes, using a microfiber-covered or foam applicator pad and working one section of the vehicle at a time. As in the other steps, remove the wax with a microfiber towel that you've folded into fourths, using one side to break the waxy surface, then flipping the towel over to a clean side to remove any additional residue.

Spray waxes (such as Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax, Mothers California Gold Spray Wax and Turtle Wax ICE Premium Care Spray Wax) are designed for quick application but generally don't offer the same long-lasting protection as the liquids or pastes. Experts say that spray waxes should be used as a booster between the quarterly applications of the liquid or paste waxes. Some car-care experts recommend using these spray waxes as often as twice per week. Some say once a month is sufficient.

A Special Caution on Matte Finishes
Except for washing with a car wash product, nothing should be done to or applied to a car covered in a matte paint with a flat finish, such as 
Mercedes-Benz's "designo Magno" series. These matte paints also can be cleaned in a brushless automated car wash as long as the machine does not apply any shine agents. And as with a car that sports a glossy finish, it is important to clean bird droppings, tree sap and other surface contaminants from a matte paint finish immediately.

Your Car Wax Mileage May Vary
Despite their suggestions for how often owners should clean and wax, product manufacturers won't make any firm promises for how long any of their products will actually protect a vehicle.

"How long a wax lasts on Car A is not necessarily true how long it lasts on Car B," says Michael Deddo, senior research chemist at Turtle Wax in Willowbrook, Illinois. "Every car is like its own paint canvas. Every one is different."

by Robert E. Calem
 

Friday, May 10, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration - Barn Find Bugatti – Preserve or Restore? - FZ Restoration Livermore






Quite literally the definition of barn find, this 1938 Bugatti Type 57 Series 3 Ventoux Coupewith 22K km on the odometer was found in a barn in central Pennsylvania, having sat unused for about 30 years. Originally sold for 82,224 Francs in 1938, the car was fitted with factory Ventoux coachwork. The original color of this car was dark blue. Imported in the 1960s from Switzerland to the US, the car suffered an engine fire around that time which caused damage to the hood panels and fenders. Most of the wiring was believed to have been destroyed in the fire as well. The car was acquired in this condition from Marlboro Motors in NJ by a gentleman who was an engineer. Most of the mechanical damage from the engine fire was repaired, and the car ran as late as 1966, though it was not given a restoration.

The car was made to run prior to the auction, and I saw it start up in the morning. As it did so, flashes of light could be visible through the vents of the engine bay as the cylinders sprang to life, accompanied by backfire and a Led Zeppelin concert style smoke screen. Still, the car moved around the show field under its own power. Video of the car’s first start-up (not shot by me) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E09D8VpUb1Q

 

Estimated at $150-200K, the Ventoux Coupe was sold on Sept. 18 at Fairfield Concours in Westport CT by Bonhams with the hammer falling at $337,000, buyer’s premium included.

In terms of comparables, in June of this year Artcurial sold an identical 1937 Type 57 Ventoux with 97K km on the clock, restored in 1998, for $446,785. That same Type 37 sold for $123,375 at Barrett-Jackson in Jan. 1998. An SCM contributor judged that sale to be market correct. Another Ventoux, in parts-car condition went for $215.108 at Retromobile this year.

So will this be the subject of a $500K restoration, which is approximately what it’ll take to bring this to concours level, or will it given a sympathetic mechanical restoration and made usable? Over the last decade originality for certain cars has come to be valued over restoration. A car can be restored many times, it is said, but it can be original only once. Had this car been found back in 1991, there is no question that it would have been immediately sent off to a complete nut and bolt restoration, which would have cleaned not only the patina but the history of this car. With a car like this, one that is borderline-roadworthy, that’s a tough choice to make, but at the price bought there is still some upside following a rather conservative restoration, if the buyer decides to flip it.

 

In this case I would side towards a complete restoration. This is a relatively story-free car (‘cept the minor detail of the engine fire) as it’s effectively a two owner car that’s been locked away after seeing very little use since the mid-1960s. As far as Bugatti barn finds go, that’s a pretty good period of time. Bugatti barn finds nowadays tend to be ones that have either been found as re-bodied and abused chassis that have been gathering dust since the 1950s, or more recent cars that have simply been stored but not forgotten for 30 years. The patina that is on this car is not exactly worth preserving, at least the wear and damage on the outside. Restoring it would not be like patching up the bullet holes on Dillinger’s Ford, thereby erasing its historical significance. The cabin is relatively intact, so if the buyer decides to restore it, some of the cabin might be left untouched like the steering and gauges.
 
 
 

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration Bay Area - Rebuilding the first Duesenberg, part two: The break-up - FZ Restoration Livermore

Last fall, I checked in on what remains of the world’s first production Duesenberg, currently undergoing a ground-up restoration at Bruce Canepa’s eat-off-the-floor shop in Scotts Valley, Calif. Back then, the hulking beast was a drab shell of its former self, squatting near a stripped Mercedes 300SL, with a deadline less than a year away.
On a more recent visit, it was in pieces.
“It should be put together soon, but there are still things we’re waiting on,” says Dave Stoltz, the pony-tailed master craftsman who has been charged with reviving a Duesy that was purchased new in 1921 by an ancestor of Californian Jimmy Castle, whose family made its fortune in Hawaiian land and produce. “We’ve had some interesting hurdles to clear in rebuilding this thing using just four black and white photos. But it’s getting done.”
The completion target date remains mid-August, in time for an unveiling at the fabled Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, which this summer celebrates Duesenbergs. Canepa’s crew has just cleared away space for this Duesy next to an old Volkswagen bus, which owner and racer Bruce Canepa — whose facility also sells some of the most pristine exotics around — is looking to stuff with a twin-turbo Porsche engine so it can rocket to 170 mph.
“We’ll lay some nice carpet down here, and watch her evolve back into the way she looked when new,” says Canepa marketing chief John Ficarra. “Then it’s off to Pebble.”
Behind Ficarra, the car’s suspension parts gleam in their new coat of black paint. A few stalls away, the car’s long and narrow frame awaits a paint job, as does the carriage-like body resting a few feet away. Nearby is a disassembled dash.
Missing is the car’s engine, a straight-eight that could rev to 4,000 rpm and hit 80 mph, a blistering road-going speed for the day and likely a frightening one given the car’s lack of safety features and meager stopping power. “Ed Pink’s is doing the engine, and, well, we’re still waiting,” says Stoltz of the legendary Van Nuys powerplant building shop.
Most Duesys are seven-figure cars, or more. But Ficarra speculates that this car’s value could hit mid- to high-eight figures if its owner were to sell, which he won’t. Fellow Duesenberg owner Jay Leno has confirmed he sought to buy the car in its former state of dilapidation (it was stored for decades in an old Hawaiian farm house) and was politely refused.
Stoltz is the only expert who has been working on this project for years, and the cost of his time and hand manufacturing prowess will be sizeable. Says Ficarra: “The minute the world sees what Dave did to bring this car back using just photos, often making missing parts by hand, well let’s just say that I don’t think we’ll be able to get him again. He’ll just be too busy.”
But Stoltz is a modest man and shrugs off such talk. He prefers to keep the conversation on the object of his obsession. He ticks off a short list of project hurdles, most of them already overcome through long searches or fabricated ingenuity.
“When we took the car apart we found a lot of things that had been changed from original, for good reason,” he says, noting that the steering box in the car was from a Model J instead of the original Gemmer box. “I finally found a guy in the Midwest who had one, and he’s getting it ready for us. They weren’t that good and didn’t last long, so that’s why it was changed out. But we want this to be original, and obviously once it’s done it’s not like this car will be driven that much.”
One item remains elusive. “We can’t find a second T-shaped door handle. We have one, and we’ve found others with no locks. But this car had handles with keys and locks, so if I don’t find it I will make it.” In fact, so far Stoltz has had to hand-make more than one-third of the car’s parts, mainly using those four period photos slapped on the walls of Canepa’s neon-lit shop.
“I expected to find missing things, but I was naive about how few parts would be available for this car,” says Stoltz. “All these cars were one-off machines, so a lot was unique just to this vehicle. But, that’s what makes this project such a great challenge.”
 
source:  Motoramic
by Marco R. della Cava
 

Monday, May 6, 2013

Vintage and Exotic Car Restoration Bay Area - Rebuilding the first Duesenberg, one bolt at a time - FZ Restoration Livermore



On a recent fall morning, business is buzzing at the automotive candy shop that is Canepa Design. Over here, a Ferrari Daytona is having work done on its carbs, over there a vintage Mercedes Benz Gullwing is being stripped of paint. But sandwiched between other familiar sports cars -- a pair of Porsche 356s and a Shelby GT350 -- is a rare bird of a far different feather: The first passenger car to ever wear the name Duesenberg, an important piece of automotive history.
Dave Stoltz, Canepa's one-man restoration crew on this project of a lifetime, is hard at work on this doozy of a car, a 1921 Duesenberg Model A road-rocket that has been in the Castle family -- Hawaiian missionaries turned land and produce magnates -- since new and is being revived by California descendent Jimmy Castle. The car is the first production model of the storied racing-focused brand that later became synonymous with four-wheeled opulence. These visions of American luxury were driven by everyone from Al Capone to William Randolph Hearst, and custom-outfitted cost as much as $25,000 at a time when doctors earned around $3,000 a year.
Canepa Design's mission is to present this one-off car at the 2013 Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance, just down Highway One from its Scotts Valley, Calif., headquarters. Although in its present state the car looks humble, restored it could well make a 1962 Ferrari GTO that recently traded hands for $35 million look like a cheap date.
"It's like a Honus Wagner baseball card," says Jay Leno
"Duesenbergs routinely fetch eight figures, so for this one, the very first production car that's stayed in the same family, the price could well be more than $50 million," says Canepa spokesman John Ficarra, who adds that the restoration alone will cost more than a million, most of it in labor as Stoltz sets about either restoring or manufacturing myriad pieces using as a roadmap just four photos of the car in its heyday.
Not that the car's ultimate asking price matters. Castle doesn't appear to be selling. Duesenberg collector and comedian Jay Leno tried to buy the car a few years back but was politely rebuffed. He remains intrigued by the seminal machine.
"The Duesenberg brothers built racing cars, which eventually gave way to making a few production cars," Leno explains. "This car had a straight 8 (cylinder) engine, which was fairly new at the time, and hydraulic brakes. It was big, heavy and reliable. The first of anything is always significant. It's like a Honus Wagner baseball card. And some cars these days really are moving into the realm of kinetic artwork, investments that aren't unlike buying an early (Marc) Chagall or a Picasso."
What makes this car unique is that despite its massive size it was, relatively speaking, a spry coupe in its day, says Randy Ema, one of the nation's foremost Duesenberg experts who owns what's left of the manufacturer's records and blueprints and has provided some assistance on the restoration.
"The car could hit 80 mph and rev up to 4,000 rpm, which was really unheard of back then," says Ema. "It was a light, nimble little car when compared to a Packard or Lincoln. It also cost $9,000 when a Ford cost around $280. But what makes this model so special is it's the first and only remaining original-owner car."
While this particular Duesenberg isn't accompanied by much documentation save vintage photos, "Fred Roe's book on Duesenberg indicates that it was built and sold before the end of 1921 and that the original owner's assertion that it was the first car sold is probably correct," says Jon Bill, archivist at the Auburn Cord Automobile Museum in Auburn, Ind. (Auburn Automobiles owner E.L. Cord bought Duesenberg in 1926.)
Dave Stoltz, the Duesy's lone restorer, works on a brass headlight
The first thing that strikes you about the car is the size of its two-passenger cabin, which is framed in wood. The oversized dimensions stem from its first owner's massive size, said to be some seven feet tall and three hundred pounds. But changing that seat position is likely the only thing Stoltz will mess with on this car; his mandate is to spare no expense to make the car look like it did the day it left the Duesenberg factory.
"Not long after the first owner bought the car he shipped it to Hawaii, where the lava roads and farm life were very taxing," says Stoltz. "So he eventually shipped it back to the factory, and they beefed things up a lot, all of which we are getting rid of. I now have these four (original) photos ingrained in my head, and I've been making new parts as we go along."
This rebuild is as complete as they come. Time and the ocean's salt air ate away a good deal of the car's aluminum and steel, and the deterioration was exacerbated by decades of storage in Hawaii and California. So far, Stoltz has hand-fabricated bumpers, parts of fenders, an intricate luggage rack, a brass gas cap, and headlight stands - a part you can barely see once the British-made brass headlamps take up residence on top of them. Stoltz pulls off the stands, two pieces of flowing sculpture that he says could be made using computer technology for around $7,000 but which he crafted from molds for $5,000.
"Besides the cheaper price, I liked the fact that they wouldn't be totally perfect, because no one back in 1921 was using computers to make anything," snickers the pony-tailed Stoltz, whose recently helped restore a 1959 Ferrari Testarossa to its former glory. "This is definitely a dream job for me. This Duesy is like a ghost car, because no one has seen it for years. But in the end a car's a car. If you're willing to put in the hours researching, scouring the Web looking for parts, making parts, starting from scratch when you have to, then anything is possible."
At present, the body of this 1921 Duesenberg is waiting to be joined by its suspension and engine, the latter being worked on by fabled Ed Pink Racing Engines in Los Angeles. We'll be back with more as the car comes together.
 
source: Motoramic
by Marco R. della Cava
 

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Exotic Car and Vintage Restoration Bay Area - How often do I need to clay my car? - FZ Restoration Livermore





How often you need to clay your car's paint depends upon what's in the air where you park your car.

Make sense? Pretty simple really.

If your car never leaves the garage except to show-off at the local Cars & Coffee event on a sunny Saturday morning then you probably don't need to clay your car very often because your car is not exposed to the w-o-r-l-d.


If your like 99.9% of the rest of us working class dogs, then your car is a Daily Driver that you drive every day and that means it's parked outside at least while you're at work and possibly 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

What this means if there's any kind of contaminants in the air over your car and they land on your car then some of them are going to bond to the paint if you don't wash your car every day. I actually don't know anyone that washes their car every day so chances are good if you park your car outside for a portion of each day, for example Monday through Friday while you're working for the man, then chances are good your car's paint is getting a build-up of air-borne contaminants and this means periodically you need to use some detailing clay to clay your car's paint.

Use your hands-to inspect and feel the paint with the fingertips of your clean hand


1. First, wash and dry your car.

2. Now take your clean hand and feel the paint. 

Does the paint finish feel smooth and glassy? If the answer is yes you don't need to clay your car's paint.

Does the paint feel rough or textured? If you feel little bumps or any kind of roughness or surface imperfections, this is a strong indicator that you need to clay your car's paint.


Feel the horizontal surfaces of your car's paint with your clean hand after you wash and dry the car.

It's not a matter of time but a matter of concentration of air-borne pollution
It doesn't matter if you clayed the paint 2 days ago or 2 years ago, if after washing and drying your car and then feeling the paint it DOES NOT feel smooth and glassy, then you need to clay the paint.

It's not a matter of time intervals for example, some might say, "we recommend that you clay your paint every 6 months". While that might work for some people that's not an accurate way to maintain a nice finish, an accurate way to maintain a nice finish is to be pro-active by simply feeling the horizontal panels on your car and check to see if there are any above surface bonded contaminants like,

Tree Sap MistPaint OversprayIndustrial PollutionJet Fuel Exhaust - (If you live close to an airport)
C
ar and Truck PollutionBrake DustRoad GrimeDirt and dust in the air

How often you need to clay your car's paint is a matter of what's in the air where your car is parked day-in and day-out.


source: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22015-how-often-do-i-need-clay-my-car.html
by Mike Phillips


http://www.rzrestoration.com